- Which system is most suited to my walls?
- How do I select items that work together?
- Should the track run from corner to corner and over doors and windows?
- How do I know which components I want?
- Do the hangers come in different lengths?
- What is the maximum weight restriction on the cables and the tracking?
- Does each picture require one or two cables?
Which system is right for me?
There are several systems for you to choose from, each product section has a description of each system and its possible applications, consider whether you are using it for private or commercial use, the weight and approximate number of the pieces you will be hanging and the approximate length of the walls.
Should I continue the top rail over doors and windows?
In most cases we suggest you continue the top rail over door frames and windows, this is because it looks neater and won't impose on the display. If you were to break the top rail you would be using end caps on all open ends to finish it neatly.
How do I select items that work together?
For a complete system you will need the RAIL these come with all necessary wall mounts, screws and masonry plugs, you will also need a rail connector, if you wish to connect rails at any point as well as end caps to finish the rails. You will need CABLES to suspend the artwork from the rails, these can be either 10kg clear nylon cables or 25kg stainless steel cables in either silver , black or white. Then you will need HOOKS to go onto the cables, these start with our 4kg HM hook or 10kg HZ hook for the clear nylon or for steel cables there's a HQ 20kg hook or an HK 25kg hook.
For working out length of cables required. The bottom of the cable needs to come down to at least chest level, as this would usually be the lowest point at which you would place your hook. Remember that stainless steel and nylon cables can be coiled up and hidden behind the artwork or cut off if required.
How much do I need?
There are two ways to measure how many rails you require. One is simply to measure each wall, in metres, add them all together, and divide by 2, (each rail is 2m long). When doing this you MUST add 10% to the total, otherwise on the last section of wall you'll be fixing a long line of short offcuts together.
The preferred method is take each wall as a separate section. With the Minirail System for example the rails come in 1.2m / 1.8m / 2.0m / 3.0m lengths. An example, if you have a 4.2 metre wall and a 3.8 metre wall , order 1 x 2.0m +1 x 3.0m then carry the 0.8 off-cut onto the 3.8 m wall. Its best to write down all your measurements first and then work out your off-cut use to minimise waste and cost.
Easier still, if you'd like to just email us with your wall measurements we can calculate everything including connectors and end caps and send you a quote.
We recommend using two cables and hooks per picture, so estimate the likely number of pictures you'll be displaying at any one time and multiply by two. Our cables and hooks are always readily available so you can always order a few more if you need to. There is no minimum order or restrictions as everything is available individually or in packs of 10. If you're unsure of the amount of artwork you'll be hanging then one cable and hook per lineal metre of rail is a good starting point.
You may wish to hang multiple pieces on the same pair of cables as the picture below shows in a commercial setting so in that case calculate two extra hooks per picture, in this example the customer has used the Minirail System with LNC2 2.0 metre cables and 4kg HM hooks.
How do I describe which component I want?
For all of our hanging systems we use the terms 'RAIL', 'CABLE', and 'HOOK'. These describe the main features that make up each system.
The RAIL , is simply the picture rail, which is fixed horizontally at, or near the top of the wall under the cornice or square set join ,The Minirail System and sometimes on the ceiling The AVR System.
The CABLE is the vertical piece that hangs from the RAIL, either a stainless steel cable or a crystal clear nylon line, easily adjusted from side to side, on to which you place…
The HOOK. All of them easily adjustable up or down, and most of them self-locking , so you can position your pictures perfectly and easily.
What is the maximum weight restriction on the systems?
The Minirail System has a maximum weight capacity of 25kgs per lineal metre 10kgs per nylon cable, 25kgs per steel cable, the hooks have various maximum weight ratings which can be found in the description column on the product's info and pricing pages.
When using two hangers and two hooks for one picture (recommended for stability), you can double the maximum weight capacity i.e 2 x 4kg HM hooks will hold an 8kg picture.
The AVR system is rated at 25kgs per lineal metre on the rails, 10kgs per nylon hanger and 20kgs per stainless steel hanger, compatible hooks and components can be found on the product pages.
How do I install it?
The skill level required is similar to that of putting a row of shelves.
1. Decide at which position you would like the rail.
If there is a cornice then tight up against that is ideal; the rail is then barely visible from the floor height appearing as part of the cornice once installed.
With square set ceilings without a cornice we recommend using an impact driver with a drill bit extension, that way you dont have the spinning chuck of the drill near the ceiling and you can angle the driver slightly away from the ceiling when both drilling your holes and fixing your screws.
We are always happy to talk you through installation over the phone and provide easy to follow installation instructions with each order.
3. For the Minirail System figure out at which height you wish to install, the very top of the wall is best. If you are going hard up the ceiling or a cornice then use a 4-6mm thick batten or similar to scribe a line all the way along the length of wall.
Masonry / brick walls - Mark your drill holes 100mm in at each end then 450mm apart (maximum recommended wall mount distance is 500mm apart) Plasterboard / stud walls - use a stud finder to locate and mark your studs, if they are 450-500mm apart simply mark and drill into the studs. If your studs are 600mm apart or further mark and drill into the stud and then use a plasterboard fixing between each stud to support the rail.
Figure out where your joins will be and support that join with a wall mount 100mm on one side. For hard plaster walls, scan for electrical wiring before drilling, a standard stud finder will have this capability.
Drill your holes and insert wall plugs, push the screw through wall mount washer narrow side facing out and tighten screw to wall just enough so the back of the mount doesn't break the wall surface. Put all mounts on for the full length of the wall. Push an end cap into the end of the rail and a connector on the first rail making sure half the connector protrudes. Hold the rail in position over the wall mount at an angle and gently tap it with a rubber or timber mallet, a wooden block will also suffice. Connect the second rail at the join end first, if you need to remove the rail to reposition slide a small flat screwdriver behind it at one end and twist then gently lever it off.
Can I use one hanger to hang a picture?
In most cases we recommend you use 2 hangers per single picture or vertical row of pictures and 2 hooks per picture. This will hold the picture straight and keep the whole display neat and tidy. However if the picture is portrait shaped, longer than wider and fairly light then one hook and cable can be used hanging centrally on the picture wire.
In a vertical display, if you use one hanger for a vertical row of small pictures the hanger will act as a pivot for the top pictures caused by the weight of the bottom one pulling away. The vertical row will look untidy.
What do I do with the excess hanger?
The excess of the hanger should be coiled up and tucked behind the picture, this way you are able to re-use the hangers when you change the display.
Can you hang clocks on a picture hanging system?
We have hung clocks successfully on the our systems before however there are a few things to consider: The centre of gravity on clocks due to depth versus height and the glass adding weight in the front can make the clock lean forward, the best thing to do as all clocks vary so much is to try it and see. Longer clocks (pendulum) will site straighter.